A family-owned restaurant in San Gabriel, California, has been forced to pull its most popular dish from the menu. Golden Leaf, a local favorite for Taiwanese street food, stopped serving its signature stinky tofu after a long-running dispute with a neighbor over the dish’s pungent aroma.
Stinky tofu, or chou doufu, is a beloved icon of Taiwanese night markets. The dish is made by fermenting tofu in a special brine, resulting in a sharp scent often compared to strong blue cheese. For owner David Liao and his family, the dish was a top seller, accounting for up to 20% of their revenue.
The trouble began in 2017 when a single neighbor started complaining to the city about the smell. While other local businesses and customers said they weren’t bothered, the city issued multiple citations. San Gabriel’s municipal code prohibits odors that cause “nuisance or annoyance” beyond a property line.
The Battle for ‘Chou Doufu’
Liao’s parents originally removed the dish to avoid fines but tried to bring it back in 2025. They even started a newsletter to let fans know when “drops” of the tofu would be available. However, the neighbor reportedly resumed a relentless calling campaign, even blocking the restaurant’s phone line with constant calls.
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After receiving more violation notices and paying over $1,000 in fines, the family took the dish off the menu again in November 2025. Liao started a Change.org petition that has gained over 1,000 signatures. Supporters argue the ban feels culturally insensitive. One supporter commented that targeting the food sends a message that Taiwanese traditions aren’t welcome in public spaces.
High Costs and No Guarantees
City Councilmember John Wu suggested the restaurant install a high-end filtration system, similar to a nearby coffee shop. But for a small family business, the price tag is staggering. Liao estimates a specialized filter could cost $100,000, while a ventless fryer ranges from $20,000 to $50,000.
“We were willing to work with the city,” Liao said, but noted the city wouldn’t provide a written guarantee that the expensive upgrades would stop the citations. Relocating isn’t an option, leaving the family in a difficult spot. For now, the “national dish” of Taiwan remains missing from Golden Leaf’s menu as the community debates the line between local nuisance rules and cultural expression.
